DRIVESHAFTS: Changing your drive shaft in a GTO is possibly one of the most noticeable changes you can make in its drive train, the factory 2 piece has a center hanger bearing and every time you step on the gas the shaft moves up and down quite violently especially if you have increased the HP. Second the factory shaft has Rubber drive doughnuts that are not real good at handling power. Because of the center bearing and rubber hanger during hard acceleration the shaft will move up and down violently not only making noise but robbing you of the extra HP you have added. The other problem we are seeing is to change the shaft over to a u-joint style one would usually change the pinion yoke over to a conventional style, but with the GTO rear there is a crush collar that would need to be changed to properly set the pinion bearing pre-load, Too loose you will damage the gearset too tight you will melt the bearings. What we have done is make a 7075-T6 aluminum drive plate that bolts right to the 3 finger drive flange on the rear. It's a simple bolt to the car process and you don't need to go into the rear to install!!!
We offer 2 shaft designs first is a 3.5" aluminum shaft with special chromoly 1310 u-joints (same size that came on a factory big block Chevelle's from 1968-72) this along with the drive plate will make the shaft capable of 550Whp (more with Auto). You say 550HP isn't enough to get you heart rate to mountain bike hill climbing status ? and you have 1000HP at the wheels? Then you would need the 1350 HD shaft with 3.5 tube and forged transmission yoke. So if you ready to bolt on a shaft that will not only be smoother and help loose the hanger bearing lag from the factory shaft take some time and look at our new shafts for the 2004-2006 GTO's
